31 October 2006

Inside the Blue Mosque and Aya Sofia

Hearing: Turkish TV.

So today started with a visit to the Blue Mosque. Visitors can only enter at certain times (non-prayer) but the entry is free. Remember to wear clean socks as you will have to take off your shoes.
Inside is amazing - really beautiful. There is Arabic (Koran) script everywhere and there is a reason that its called the Blue Mosque - all the tiles inside are blue although the interior in my photos looks orange. The lights are hung low and the whole place has a very peaceful vibe to it. A bit of trivia for you - apparently Mecca was the only mosque with 6 minarets and when the Blue Mosque was built with 6 also Mecca added another minaret to preserve its uniqueness.








The Hagia Sofia or Ayasofia is under renovation so when i went inside there was a huge scaffolding reaching all the way up to the middle of the main dome. There is an entrance charge of 10YTL which i assume goes to restoration or maintenance. This is one of those places where Islam and Christian or Catholic symbolism are found side by side as you can see from the photos. Another interesting thing is the mosaic work - a lot of it was covered up at some stage but some has been uncovered and though worse for wear, is still stunning. By the by, there is nothing wrong with your eyes or with my camera - that column is slanted all on its own a little nod to Pisa perhaps? Just another quirky thing about this fantastic place.








Next up was lunch, the food here is oh so, so YUMMY! The restaurant was very cosy and had a local radio station called JoyFm on in the background. My waiter Nazif was very professional being in the business 30+ years and very sweet helping an old lady into her coat giving the kids paper flowers he made. Then he came over to give me one but said he cheated and gave me a real little yellow flower! BTW that metal looking thing in the photo is actually a barbecue! Looks pretty funky doesn't it?



So first up was a cold appetiser - eggplant stuffed with veggies and tastes as good as it looks.



The main meal was a gamble called the Suleiman row boat of beef! LOL! So it had beef with mushrooms and apple pieces in a cream sauce - the apple was an interesting addition but i had to give it a try.


And as for desert...i asked Nazif to recommend something and he ended up bringing out a whole tray of dessert for me to choose from including baklava, several cakes, rice pudding and fig with tahina. I don't like tahina so i decided on the rice pudding (divine!) and black tea (BTW they love their apple teas here -and cube sugar- its very sweet, and I'm a new convert). The tea cups are glass and can get very hot so they give you a small napkin to wrap around the glass to keep your fingers from burning. Oh did i mention that Nazif gave me a free second tea?


I saw this family come in for lunch (the boy is wearing an Aussie t-shirt!). Apparently they are from Alaska and had been travelling around the UK for the past month and were now making their way through Istanbul, then onto Syria, Jordan and Israel for another month before heading home.

As if it wasn't enough that it was wet weather, there was also a very strong wind. When i left the restaurant i saw these kids with what was left of their umbrellas. Unfortunately as i took my camera out to take a photo of them my own umbrella blew out hence the blurry photo, but you can still see one kid with the wire and the other trying to use the little bit of material left of his. LOL! Just nearby this area is a fenced off remain of an old roman arch. This is such an amazing place - historical remnants are all over the place.









A very wet and windswept,
VP
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30 October 2006

Topkapi Palace, Istanbul

Hearing: Seagulls call, coffee maker, bfast ppl chatting and earlier the Turkish Anthem playing in a nearby school.
8.34am ..... yes its true.

Morning all, I'm in the terrace bfast room just finishing up my cup of coffee and oh look, its started raining LOL. I got here early before anyone else so i managed to take a pic of the terrace. Nothing can deter me on this holiday, I'm determined to enjoy everything. Alastair i guess you did end up rubbing off on me after all.

To my right i can see buildings on top of one another, a single tree in a courtyard with brown leaves. Infront the Marmara Sea and a couple of antennas sticking up for good measure. To the left more buildings, a huge aircon unit on a rooftop, a Turkish flag (the people here are very patriotic and peeking out between the buildings the minarets of the blue mosque and half its dome LOL.

Edit: 5.24pm

I'm on the terrace again, its empty so I've snuck up here to have the place to myself. It was raining all day today but not a huge unbearable downpour so it was manageable, now its pouring.

After bfast i headed outside with no distinct plans to go anywhere, i was just going to walk and if i got lost all the better.

My photos en route






























I ended up at Topkapi Palace which is huge btw. Entrance 10 YTL, audio guide (recommended cuz u can choose where to go and set your own pace) also 10YTL and you'll need to leave id, entry into the harem 10YTL.
Through the entrance there is an area with display models of Topkapi and to the right you can see the old royal carriages.






























Further along are the old kitchens which are converted into an exhibition space for the porcelain used during the sultans era. The story goes that every three months the soldiers would get paid their salary at a ceremony attended by foreign emissaries. If the soldiers ate the food presented to them it meant that they accepted the payment as fair, if they refused then it meant that they were dissatisfied and negotiations would immediately begin.

Don't be fooled by my photos these kitchens are huge and run along the entire side of the 2nd court. Each kitchen was used for certain people, the first for royalty and those of a higher position in the court, others for the more general food preparation and one specifically for sweets!













This is Felicities Gate where many a ceremony was held and it is the entrance way into the 3rd court. Its walls are decorated with frescoes of beautiful landscapes and scenes. There is a painting of a sultan (don't ask me which) sitting on his throne infront of all his guests – i saw both the painting and the throne housed in the exhibitions there.















Enderrun – the inner palace. The place where boys were educated to later take up a position in the court. The chamber of petitions, the sultan would receive guests here but only speak to them through his visiar and through the window. Tapestries decorated with gold and silver decorated this place and when they got too old and tattered they were stripped and melted down and 80-90kgs of silver and you don't want to know how much gold was the result.





Library and random views of the 3rd court.



































In the 3rd court on the right there is a bunch of exhibitions showing the sultans clothes, thrones covered in precious stones, precious jewelry and daggers even the relics (ie the forearm) of St John the Baptist...

Onto the 4th court. On the right is a fab view of the Marmara Sea and Bosphorus which also happened to be the view for my pitt stop for a break and bite to eat.


















 

The Iftar dome. It is said that this is where the sultan broke his every evening during Ramadan, it has a beautiful view and in case your wondering - yes its gold.

Further on there is an entire room dedicated to holy relics on of which includes the staff of Moses. Now correct me if I'm wrong but seeing something like that regardless whether you believe what these people did or not, to have something like that tying these people from the past to the present is impressive and i admit made a chill go down my spine. In these rooms the Koran is constantly read and the Sultans room was right next to them.








Photos from the Harem (women's quarters). Eunuchs were used to guard these quarters. The first photo is of the main entrance which also doubled as a shopping alley.

















The Concubines Courtyard. On the left are the baths since hygiene was an important part of life and on the right the concubines rooms. They were assigned according to station, favour of sultan, potential, children etc
















Inside the hammams, one of which was specifically for the sultans wife.











The inner private rooms. Above the area on the left was the concubines choir – everyone there was educated and music was big.














Topkapi Palace explored, it was another walk around to take in the sights...

The entrance/exit gate dividing the road to Topkapi Palace.





















Ahmet III fountain














The Haga Sofia or Ayasofia




















The Blue Mosque – Yay someone to take a pic of me

















































Along this walk i lost count how many cats i saw. They were everywhere. This is the Egyptian Oblisk, behind is the Column of Constantine and between both though you probably cant see it properly is the Serpant Column. On the run of shops on the right i stepped into a shop to ask for directions and got them along with advice on a trip up the Bosphorus and a story about his life, family and plans for his shop. He was so nice, a grandfatherly sort of person and even gave me free coffee! I'll have to go back sometime and try the baklava...




















As ive been sitting here writing this one of the guys from the hotel realised they had a problem with the water on the terrace and proceeded to try to get rid of it while it was still raining and started dancing just for the fun of it or maybe it was because he had an audience – very entertaining stuff.

So by the end of today ive been inside 1 historical palace and seen so many significant sites, been followed by 2 guys and had a great many laughs and thourougly enjoyed myself. I wonder whats in store tomorrow.

VP

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29 October 2006

Arrive Istanbul, Turkey


Hearing: Turkish TV background noise

I've finally arrived in IST after a day delay, a nerve-racking wait on sby at the airport (the perils of travelling on ID90 tix) and finally finding a hotel to stay in, I'm here. Exhale.

The drive in was interesting in itself. The driver, speaking in broken english, told me a little about himself and pointed out the different areas as we went along.

The hotel is so far so good, clean, subtly decorated and is in the centre of the old city Sulthanmet and has a rooftop terrace overlooking the Marmara.
My only concern at the moment is that it seems to be in a bit of a dodgy area. I've booked 5nights here since my first booking with another hotel fell through (they said they had availability but didn't really) but tomorrow is a new day, I'll go out exploring and if I still don't like this place I'll look around for another one.

Till then I'm going to crash since I haven't had much sleep, night all.

VP

EDIT: This place is perfect actually, not in the touristy area where all the hostels are and more where the residents are and close to the tramway. Its perfect.
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16 October 2006

How embarrassing...

Hearing: Butterfly - Crazytown

On a recent Paris layover I had the lovely opportunity of embarrassing myself by gracefully falling hard on my butt! And what brought about this lovely display of clumsiness? I was being chased by a madman, aka, my CM. Could I help it if I found it hilarious that he stepped in doggy doo? Besides I wasn't the only one laughing and he as such a stick up his butt about being perfect that it just added to a lovely moment... :)
So as I was running for my life an ingenious idea popped into my head that if I just stepped to the side at one stage he would just shoot past me, which he did, but I didn't see the half exposed drain, tripped and, in true VP "unco-ness", landed painfully on my butt!! Oh the shame...hahaha, nah it was all good, I got helped up and could never live that moment down for the rest of the trip but it was funny and I did laugh at myself too.


On another note flying back we were crossing a thunderstorm below us and I managed to get a few photos. They aren't that good since I only had a small window and lightning is wicked fast (duh!) But still I think they are quite rare, I've cropped them to show mainly the lightning through the clouds rather than vast amounts of black space (I couldn't use zoom not knowing where it was going to hit next).






















Always
VP
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