Showing posts with label Turkey. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Turkey. Show all posts

02 November 2006

Goodbye Istanbul


Hearing:
Aircraft noise

As luck would have it, my last day in Istanbul would tease me with beautiful weather, so, so cruel! Oh well, at least i finally got to appreciate the view from the terrace and take some aerial shots after taking off from the airport (I'm flying Turkish Airlines BTW).

My next stop is London where i plan to crash at an old uni friends place for a few nights and catch up with her before heading off to Edinburgh, Scotland.

Adieu wonderful Istanbul, i hope to see you again soon.

VP































Read More

01 November 2006

Underground Cistern, Istanbul - Turkey

Hearing: The sound of wind racing around (I'm on the rooftop terrace again)


Today started with a trip to the Underground Cisterns (10YTL) to say hello to the mysterious Medusa heads. Being dark down there didn't help with photo-taking so I've only got a few good ones. The place is huge and there are walkways leading to the Medusa heads with the water and fish running underneath.


The story about the Medusa heads is simply people not knowing why one is upside down and the other is on its side and why they are the only 2 in the whole underground cistern.


The Green column is one of its kind. The man you see is making a wish. The story is that if you stick your thumb in the hole and turn your hand around following the circle as you make a wish it will come true.

There were heaps of fish swimming around, most were small but there were quite a few big ones. How they got in there i cant be sure.



After the underground cisterns i stopped in to say hi to the lovely shop owner Ali Var who i met earlier and have some more of his baklava and tea. I then took a very long walk through the Grand Bizzare towards the University and down towards the Galata bridge crossing the Golden Horn.



As i was walking I came across this old woman lugging this huge box her own size down stair that led to a main road and offered to help. When i got the the bottom she wanted to give me some coins as a tip but when i refused she babbled thanks in Turkish and was really happy. I guess most people would expect a tip of some kind.

Reaching the wharf area i took some photos and you can see both sides with the horn in between in the wide photo. As i reached the other side after crossing the bridge, on my left hand side was a market buzzing with locals out shopping...with a view, not bad at all.



Since i had walked so much i opted for the tram ride back (3.5YTL flat rate) but ended up getting off on the other side and checking out the main train station. There is a little 2 room train museum and of course you can buy train tickets to all sorts of exotic sounding places, i even was tempted to ask how much one to Damascus would cost. It would be fun, i think, to travel through countries like that - watching the scenery and the world go by...

Great now I'm feeling sentimental...ugh its going to make leaving tomorrow more difficult than it already is. I really enjoyed my time here and don't want it to be over so soon. Istanbul and the Turks have a passion and reality about life that is infectious and you cant help but fall in and get swept up in the moment. I will definitely be coming back.

VP
Read More

31 October 2006

Inside the Blue Mosque and Aya Sofia

Hearing: Turkish TV.

So today started with a visit to the Blue Mosque. Visitors can only enter at certain times (non-prayer) but the entry is free. Remember to wear clean socks as you will have to take off your shoes.
Inside is amazing - really beautiful. There is Arabic (Koran) script everywhere and there is a reason that its called the Blue Mosque - all the tiles inside are blue although the interior in my photos looks orange. The lights are hung low and the whole place has a very peaceful vibe to it. A bit of trivia for you - apparently Mecca was the only mosque with 6 minarets and when the Blue Mosque was built with 6 also Mecca added another minaret to preserve its uniqueness.








The Hagia Sofia or Ayasofia is under renovation so when i went inside there was a huge scaffolding reaching all the way up to the middle of the main dome. There is an entrance charge of 10YTL which i assume goes to restoration or maintenance. This is one of those places where Islam and Christian or Catholic symbolism are found side by side as you can see from the photos. Another interesting thing is the mosaic work - a lot of it was covered up at some stage but some has been uncovered and though worse for wear, is still stunning. By the by, there is nothing wrong with your eyes or with my camera - that column is slanted all on its own a little nod to Pisa perhaps? Just another quirky thing about this fantastic place.








Next up was lunch, the food here is oh so, so YUMMY! The restaurant was very cosy and had a local radio station called JoyFm on in the background. My waiter Nazif was very professional being in the business 30+ years and very sweet helping an old lady into her coat giving the kids paper flowers he made. Then he came over to give me one but said he cheated and gave me a real little yellow flower! BTW that metal looking thing in the photo is actually a barbecue! Looks pretty funky doesn't it?



So first up was a cold appetiser - eggplant stuffed with veggies and tastes as good as it looks.



The main meal was a gamble called the Suleiman row boat of beef! LOL! So it had beef with mushrooms and apple pieces in a cream sauce - the apple was an interesting addition but i had to give it a try.


And as for desert...i asked Nazif to recommend something and he ended up bringing out a whole tray of dessert for me to choose from including baklava, several cakes, rice pudding and fig with tahina. I don't like tahina so i decided on the rice pudding (divine!) and black tea (BTW they love their apple teas here -and cube sugar- its very sweet, and I'm a new convert). The tea cups are glass and can get very hot so they give you a small napkin to wrap around the glass to keep your fingers from burning. Oh did i mention that Nazif gave me a free second tea?


I saw this family come in for lunch (the boy is wearing an Aussie t-shirt!). Apparently they are from Alaska and had been travelling around the UK for the past month and were now making their way through Istanbul, then onto Syria, Jordan and Israel for another month before heading home.

As if it wasn't enough that it was wet weather, there was also a very strong wind. When i left the restaurant i saw these kids with what was left of their umbrellas. Unfortunately as i took my camera out to take a photo of them my own umbrella blew out hence the blurry photo, but you can still see one kid with the wire and the other trying to use the little bit of material left of his. LOL! Just nearby this area is a fenced off remain of an old roman arch. This is such an amazing place - historical remnants are all over the place.









A very wet and windswept,
VP
Read More

30 October 2006

Topkapi Palace, Istanbul

Hearing: Seagulls call, coffee maker, bfast ppl chatting and earlier the Turkish Anthem playing in a nearby school.
8.34am ..... yes its true.

Morning all, I'm in the terrace bfast room just finishing up my cup of coffee and oh look, its started raining LOL. I got here early before anyone else so i managed to take a pic of the terrace. Nothing can deter me on this holiday, I'm determined to enjoy everything. Alastair i guess you did end up rubbing off on me after all.

To my right i can see buildings on top of one another, a single tree in a courtyard with brown leaves. Infront the Marmara Sea and a couple of antennas sticking up for good measure. To the left more buildings, a huge aircon unit on a rooftop, a Turkish flag (the people here are very patriotic and peeking out between the buildings the minarets of the blue mosque and half its dome LOL.

Edit: 5.24pm

I'm on the terrace again, its empty so I've snuck up here to have the place to myself. It was raining all day today but not a huge unbearable downpour so it was manageable, now its pouring.

After bfast i headed outside with no distinct plans to go anywhere, i was just going to walk and if i got lost all the better.

My photos en route






























I ended up at Topkapi Palace which is huge btw. Entrance 10 YTL, audio guide (recommended cuz u can choose where to go and set your own pace) also 10YTL and you'll need to leave id, entry into the harem 10YTL.
Through the entrance there is an area with display models of Topkapi and to the right you can see the old royal carriages.






























Further along are the old kitchens which are converted into an exhibition space for the porcelain used during the sultans era. The story goes that every three months the soldiers would get paid their salary at a ceremony attended by foreign emissaries. If the soldiers ate the food presented to them it meant that they accepted the payment as fair, if they refused then it meant that they were dissatisfied and negotiations would immediately begin.

Don't be fooled by my photos these kitchens are huge and run along the entire side of the 2nd court. Each kitchen was used for certain people, the first for royalty and those of a higher position in the court, others for the more general food preparation and one specifically for sweets!













This is Felicities Gate where many a ceremony was held and it is the entrance way into the 3rd court. Its walls are decorated with frescoes of beautiful landscapes and scenes. There is a painting of a sultan (don't ask me which) sitting on his throne infront of all his guests – i saw both the painting and the throne housed in the exhibitions there.















Enderrun – the inner palace. The place where boys were educated to later take up a position in the court. The chamber of petitions, the sultan would receive guests here but only speak to them through his visiar and through the window. Tapestries decorated with gold and silver decorated this place and when they got too old and tattered they were stripped and melted down and 80-90kgs of silver and you don't want to know how much gold was the result.





Library and random views of the 3rd court.



































In the 3rd court on the right there is a bunch of exhibitions showing the sultans clothes, thrones covered in precious stones, precious jewelry and daggers even the relics (ie the forearm) of St John the Baptist...

Onto the 4th court. On the right is a fab view of the Marmara Sea and Bosphorus which also happened to be the view for my pitt stop for a break and bite to eat.


















 

The Iftar dome. It is said that this is where the sultan broke his every evening during Ramadan, it has a beautiful view and in case your wondering - yes its gold.

Further on there is an entire room dedicated to holy relics on of which includes the staff of Moses. Now correct me if I'm wrong but seeing something like that regardless whether you believe what these people did or not, to have something like that tying these people from the past to the present is impressive and i admit made a chill go down my spine. In these rooms the Koran is constantly read and the Sultans room was right next to them.








Photos from the Harem (women's quarters). Eunuchs were used to guard these quarters. The first photo is of the main entrance which also doubled as a shopping alley.

















The Concubines Courtyard. On the left are the baths since hygiene was an important part of life and on the right the concubines rooms. They were assigned according to station, favour of sultan, potential, children etc
















Inside the hammams, one of which was specifically for the sultans wife.











The inner private rooms. Above the area on the left was the concubines choir – everyone there was educated and music was big.














Topkapi Palace explored, it was another walk around to take in the sights...

The entrance/exit gate dividing the road to Topkapi Palace.





















Ahmet III fountain














The Haga Sofia or Ayasofia




















The Blue Mosque – Yay someone to take a pic of me

















































Along this walk i lost count how many cats i saw. They were everywhere. This is the Egyptian Oblisk, behind is the Column of Constantine and between both though you probably cant see it properly is the Serpant Column. On the run of shops on the right i stepped into a shop to ask for directions and got them along with advice on a trip up the Bosphorus and a story about his life, family and plans for his shop. He was so nice, a grandfatherly sort of person and even gave me free coffee! I'll have to go back sometime and try the baklava...




















As ive been sitting here writing this one of the guys from the hotel realised they had a problem with the water on the terrace and proceeded to try to get rid of it while it was still raining and started dancing just for the fun of it or maybe it was because he had an audience – very entertaining stuff.

So by the end of today ive been inside 1 historical palace and seen so many significant sites, been followed by 2 guys and had a great many laughs and thourougly enjoyed myself. I wonder whats in store tomorrow.

VP

Read More