A charming Seville tradition

I must look suspicious as I walk around, glancing intently at doors, looking at signs I can't read, stopping to look at my phone, circling again. It's hard to know if I should knock, press the buzzer, if the door is open and I should just let myself in or if it was open, the door would be open. I check my watch again, it's definitely the right time. I give up and head to the next one. I try 4 different locations that day and have success only at one.

There, thankfully, the door is wide open and there is a clear sign above it not requiring any of my non-existent Spanish skills to translate. But that’s all the help I get. I enter a very unassuming courtyard and have no idea where to go next.

Terrified of wandering where I shouldn’t be, I slowly look around looking for clues. At the back of this courtyard is a dark alcove which, eliminating all other options, I slowly walk towards, eventually spying a dumb waiter. I exhale, happy to finally be in the right spot.

Again, thoughtfully, I have been provided with English notices. I scroll through the options, check the Spanish equivalent, make up my mind and ring the buzzer. A voice floats to me from beyond the wall, saying something in Spanish that I can't understand. But I don’t need to really. With my awful Spanish pronunciation, I ask for what I've come for and wait. There is a rustling from the other side and slowly the dumb waiter turns to reveal the packages. I place the payment in the dumb waiter and it turns again.

A huge smile plays on my lips. Success! For some reason I feel exhilarated.

To be honest, I've never felt like that buying cinnamon and chocolate shortbread biscuits before. But these biscuits are hand-made by the convents cloistered nuns. Between that and the whole honest and simple transaction, it makes them that little bit more special. It's such a charming tradition in Seville, that, if you know where to look and are there are the right time, you might be lucky enough to experience it for yourself. But I can help you there.

The best way to find the Real Monasterio De Santa Ines on Google is to locate Calle Doña María Coronel, 16, 41003 Sevilla, Spain, the entrance will be directly across the road.

Apparently there are other are convents where the nuns sell cakes, pastries biscuits etc, to support their living, but this convent was the only one I had any luck with. The opening hours of the Convent De Santa Ines are 9am-1pm and 4pm-6.30pm except Sundays and public holidays. Do stop by if you are ever in Seville.

What charming traditions have you come across?

Read More

Best Meal While Travelling - Travel linkup

So many yummy dishes, so little time! I have eaten my way through some places but the one place that really takes the cake in every regard, flavour, presentation, price, ambiance and service, is Japan. I did not a have a single bad or below par dish. So what is the most memorable? Funnily enough it had nothing to do with the food at all.

Dishes from a Kaiseki dinner - see the little green bird?

I was in the Akihabara district in Tokyo, Japan with my friend trying to find a place for dinner. We came across a wooden shopfront that looked like it was transported from rural Japan and looked busy, warm and welcoming. We stepped inside.

Tempura nettle leaves and soba noodles

A sweet waitress greeted us and apologised saying they had no tables then, as a second thought, asked if we'd mind sitting at the back. I had no problems with that, the smell of food was intoxicating and I wasn't going anywhere.

Okonomiyak - a type of savoury pancake

It turns out that the 'tables' at the back were sunken tatami mat seating. I think maybe she thought foreigners preferred tables, but not me, this was exactly what i wanted :) I clambered into my seat, ordered a bunch of food and then sat back to take in my surroundings.

Vegitarian Bento Box

The walls were covered in traditional Japanese murals, and the entire space was filled with 'Salarymen' (office workers) getting drunk and creating a ruckus. Some were passed out, their heads resting on the tables, some were getting more drinks, some were slurring lines to the karaoke playing on one screen and others were watching some sports game on another.

Did i mention dessert? They tasted so good!

They would call to each other from across the room, faces red, swaying slightly before getting distracted with another drink. All of them were in almost identical suits, jackets off and tossed aside with their bags in a heap, ties loose, shirts rumpled. It was hilarious and fascinating to watch. I'd heard about this work tradition but seeing it was entirely different.

Crab miso soup and clam rice

I don't remember the food. I think there was a fish and some sushi and I'm sure it tasted great but my attention was on these guys. It was really brilliant. Id never seen anything like it and haven't seen anything like it again.

Clam miso soup and chicken teriyaki with rice

Since I was so distracted I didn't take any photos of the meal. Instead, here are some photos from other meals I had around Japan which were all absolutely delicious. And now I'm craving Japanese...

What was your memorable meal while travelling?

As always thanks to the lovely girls Emma and Kelly and Rebecca for this travel link up.

Read More

Katz's Deli versus Carnigie Deli, New York

I realise that i may never be allowed back to Manhattan after this post. I strongly suspect there have been fights between "Team Katz's" and "Team Carnegie" that have broken up friendships, families and possibly even divided neighbourhoods. In case you have no idea what I'm on about all you need to know is that New York has a big deli culture, fresh sandwiches with delicious filling, the most famous being "pastrami on rye". Katz's deli and Carnegie deli are the most well known - Katz's claim to fame is the famous scene from the movie When Harry Met Sally - if you don't know the scene...where have you been?!

Katz's Deli

I visited Katz's after a long day out around Lower Manhattan. I stood in line with my friend only for a few minutes before being handed a ticket that would record my order and was let in. Inside, a mix of people sat at tables eating their massive sandwiches or lined up at the counter waiting to place their orders. Waiters were weaving in and out between the tables and people, carrying orders or clearing tables. Behind the long counter that ran the length of the deli were several men taking orders and making the sandwiches. Framed photos of all sorts of celebrities covered the walls and sign hung from the ceiling marked the spot where Meg Ryan had her moment. We placed our order for a pastrami on rye and corned beef on rye grabbed a seat then tried to munch our way through a sandwich that, lets face it, could feed two quite easily. My pastrami was delicious, oh my God was it good. I'm drooling just thinking about it. The crunchy pickles that accompanied it were perfect. My friend enjoyed his corned beef but said it was a little dry. We managed to polish of just over a half a sandwich each before surrendering, we were so full we were ready to burst. We took our tickets to the till, paid and made our way to the next stop feeling very happy and full.

Carnegie Deli

As part of the trip to Central Park, we made a pit stop at Carnegie Deli for provisions to make up our picnic. Through the door we met with the deli counter display and seating that stretched on towards the back. Here too the walls were so lined with framed photos of celebrities you could barely see the walls at all. The lighting was muted and decor more of a restaurant feel than Katz's. We placed our order after ogling the menu for a corned beef on rye, a salami on rye, a few pieces of pastrami and a slice of classic New York cheese cake. I have to say, a salami sandwich was not my best idea, the salami was good, not too fatty or overpowering but it would  have been better on a pizza. The corned beef was good very good, it was falling apart, moist and delicious. The pieces of pastrami were tasty but a little on the fatty side. The cheese cake...omg...can i just say, I've had cheesecake in all sorts of places but this one was just plain good - its what it should be, it was "just right".

The Verdict

Well, here is my opinion, again, please don't ban me from New York for this. If you like corned beef Carnegie is the winner, if you like pastrami Katz's wins hands down. If you want a place that makes you feel like your a local, Katz's casual atmosphere is best. For a place which has a more restaurant-like vibe then Carnegie is a bit more formal. Also, being in upper (Carnegie) or Lower (Katz's) Manhattan will mean one is going to be  heck of a lot closer to you than the other. Or you can do what i did and just try both - you wont regret it ;) just take someone with you and share a sandwich, both delis are super generous with their portion size.

Have you been to these delis? Which is your favourite?

Read More

What to do for a weekend in Madrid, Spain

A couple of weeks ago i went to Madrid for the weekend. I'd never been to the city before and couldn't resist my friends offer to be my guide and translator. Plus, i was curious to see how Madrid compared to Barcelona.

Royal Palace

I had just under 3 full days in Madrid which allowed me to take my time and and explore the city at a casual pace. Madrid makes for a great city weekend escape. Anyway, if you only have a short amount of time in Madrid, here is my must-dos for your trip.

Morning: Find yourself a local cafe, grab a decent coffee and pastry or churros which shouldn't set you back more that 5 Euros. Wander over to the Plaza Mayor to see it in the morning light. Then, stop by the Mercado de San Miguel (market) right next door. This place is always busy and has some of he freshest tapas you can get.

Plaza Mayor, Madrid

Mercado de San Miguel at 1am!

Noon: An absolute must for Madrid is a Segway tour*. I went with MadSegs on the recommendation of a friend. Its a brilliant way to see the city sights such as Temple of Debod, Royal Palace, Cathedral and to see things you wouldn't ordinarily come across. You cover a lot of ground on this tour! Don't be put off if you don't have the best balance, it is easy to learn how to use a segway and if a klutz like me can do it, ANYONE can do it!  Its a good deal 3 hours for 65 Euros. The owner is the guide, our group was small, a drink and tapa are included and at the end he throws in a CD with photos taken during the tour for free.

*Note that it is possible to do this tour in the morning during summer.

After the tour, take a break or walk around Madrid's shopping district from Sol to the El Corte Inglés which is a department store on the Plaza de Callao. Why am i telling you to go to a department store of all places?? Because it has a great view over the city of Madrid from he top which doubles as a fancy "food court" so you can grab a snack or a drink and relax for a bit. You can thank me later ;)

Royal Palace, Madrid

Temple of Debod

Almudena Cathedral

Inside Almudena Cathedral

Inside Almudena Cathedral

Evening: Like any self-respecting Spanish city, dinner in Madrid doesn't start till very late. You can always opt for a tapas tour or do your own tapas crawl. The area around Sol is famous but if there are only two places you try make sure its La Casa del Abuelo and Taberna del Chato. La Casa del Abuelo only do prawns and they do it well. Try the Gambas Ajillo (garlic prawns) they are divine. Taberna del Chato is simply brilliant, eat at the bar or at the tables in the back, the food is fresh, waiters friendly and its where locals go too. Be adventurous and try some different dishes like Melva Canutera con Tomate y Cebolleta, Cecina con Picadillo or their version of Solomillo Teriyaqu which is possibly the most tender I've ever had.

The first two are from Taberna del Chato, the last is from La Casa Del Abuelo

Madrid Travel Tips



Getting to the city from the airport: Madrid airport has Rail and Metro links from the airport to Madrid. You can also opt for a shuttle service that will take you to your hotel for approximately 12 Euros per person thought this may get you caught in traffic!
Getting around Madrid: Its easy to get around Madrid on foot, especially if you are visiting the old own, Palace, area around Sol etc. The other option is to use the metro.
Keep an eye on your belongings, as you should in other cities, especially in the shopping and touristy areas.

Read More

Tuscany in a day: Pisa, San Gimignano, Siena, Vineyard visit

This was a tough day, i was so sick all i wanted to do was curl up in bed and sleep until i couldn't sleep anymore. I was achy everywhere and felt like id been run over by a bus, a couple of times, just for the fun of it. I wanted bed, sleep and to see nothing more than the inside of my eyelids.
Instead, i got myself a good dose of delicious Italian coffee and let the tour coach do its thing. I was absolutely knackered but it was worth doing and i know, if i was feeling 100%, it would have been a great day.

The tour guide was great, he knew a lot but didn't feel he had to talk the whole time - my headache thanked him heartily for that. My nose and chest however were not happy with the inconsiderate bogan Aussie who smoked like a chimney at every stop and then sat behind me reeking of cigarettes - if i had the strength, nothing would have delighted me more than throwing her off the nearest cliff. Yes being sick makes me cranky and short tempered. Lucky for her though, i had a sample of perfume in my bag which i spritzed everywhere while blessing the cotton socks of the sales person who put it in my hand.

Anyway, sick or not, here is the armchair traveller's, smoke-free version of the tour. Do let me know if you enjoy it!

Pisa

 

Tuscan countryside and vineyard visit

Our lunch stop for the day at the Tenuta Torciano Vineyard

Appetisers at Tenuta Toriano delicious olive oil on fresh bread, cheese and bruschetta followed by a simple tomato pasta drizzled with truffle oil and almond biscuits. The group also got to sample different wines with each dish, many were quite merry by the end of our lunch!

The grounds of Tenuta Toriano

The grounds of Tenuta Toriano

San Gimignano

Piazza della Cisterna - a charming town square in San Gimignano

The view of San Gimignano from the ruined turret of Rocca di Montestaffoli

Piazza della Cisterna

The ruined towers of San Gimignano

View from Rocca di Montestaffoli

Siena

Siena - Piazza del Campo and Town Hall. The Piazza is home to the  Palio di Siena (Il Palio) horse races.

Beautiful inside and out - the Cathedral of Siena.
Its floors are different paintings with different marble used for colours - simply stunning!

The Piccolomini Library inside the Cathedral of Siena,
This is a small library that houses the huge hand written and painted choir books. The detail in the books and the bright, well preserved, colours of the room is worth a visit.

Well, thats all for this photo tour of Tuscany. I hope you enjoyed the photos!

VP

Read More